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Friday, April 5, 2013

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Tecumseh HMSK80 Engine Alternator Installation

The one part that I didn't discuss in my last post was the key missing
component. In order to operate correctly the alternator, which generates
A.C. power, need a rectifier to convert the A.C. to D.C. Then I can use
an automotive style utility light which are easily obtained at local
stores. Adding a battery allows me to run the light without the engine
running, or when the engine is running at low RPMs.



Original flywheel is removed. This is required to install the alternator
coils which are mounted underneath. The old flywheel makes a nice paper
weight once it's off.





The new flywheel has 5 magnets to match the alternator coil below. I'm
not knowledgeable on the effects of different numbers of magnets numbers
of coils. They would most likely affect the power output and possibly
frequency/amplitude of the output AC signal.



Below I've mounted the alternator to the engine.





Routing of the wires is critical as it cannot rub against the flywheel
when running, nor can it crimp the fuel line. Try a few different
routing options to find what's best for your setup.



Below are the two AC alternator output wires hooked up to the two channels of my scope.



Same thing, just overlaid.




Then I hooked it up to a full-bridge rectifier and we see the desired "DC" output is not clean at all.



I will be adding a capacitor as well as a regulating circuit to reduce
the voltage to a stable 14.4V. I hope to use a switching setup rather
than linear regulator.

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